Ever since people started building skin care routines with several steps, there has been lots of talk of “active ingredients”, and how no product is worth it without them.
If you’re new to skin care, this might be pretty confusing. How are some ingredients active and others aren’t? What does active even mean in skin care? And which active ingredients should you use in your routine?
So many questions! But don’t worry, the answers aren’t that complicated. Let’s learn everything there is to know about active ingredients in your skin care products!
Disclosure: Some of the links below are so-called provision links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I can earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
What does “active” mean in skincare?
So first we have to look at the definition of the term “active ingredient” when it comes to skin care. And honestly, the answer surprised me a little.
I would’ve thought “active” simply means the ingredient does something, right? But no, it’s a little more weird.
An active ingredient is something that’s approved by the FDA to treat a specific condition.
An example that I personally have used would be benzoyl peroxide, which is FDA-approved to treat acne.
Related: Benzoyl peroxide not working anymore? Try this!
Active vs inactive ingredients in skin care
According to FDA guidelines for cosmetics labeling active ingredients have to be declared differently than inactive ones. So if you look at your cosmetic product, you’ll see the active ingredients first, including their concentration in percent (%).
Inactive ingredients, on the other hand, will simply be listed in descending order of “predominance”. But don’t misunderstand the word “inactive”. It doesn’t mean these ingredients don’t have a role to play in your skin care product.
It simply means, they are not an FDA-approved “drug”.
Active ingredients list
So which are typical active ingredients for a skincare routine? To make it super simple, I’ve created an “active ingredients list” for you with the most common “actives”!
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is the perfect active ingredient: super compatible with any skin type. Works hydrating and against fine lines and wrinkles. You can find a whole guide to using Hyaluronic acid in skin care here!
Related: Hyaluronic acid and acne – What you need to know
Niacinamide
One of my favorite active skin care ingredients to treat acne scars! But even if you have no issues with acne, Niacinamide does a lot for your skin.
It hydrates, is anti-inflammatory, improves the skin barrier, and even has some anti-aging effects. To read more about it and how to use it in your skin care routine check out this Niacinamide guide!
Related: Niacinamide products to try – creams, serum & toner
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are wonderful exfoliants! But Alpha Hydroxy Acid is not actually the ingredient. It’s a “acid family”, summarising several acids under one term.
The most popular ones are probably Glycolic acid and Lactic acid. As with any acid, be mindful of how you use them and follow the instructions on the label. They can be irritating if not used properly!
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
You guessed it, the BHAs are another acid family. The most famous one is Salycylic acid, for sure. Personally, I use it daily in my cleaning foam, and I credit it with supporting me in clearing my hormonal acne!
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an active ingredient I love, but use cautiously. It can help in reducing inflammation, boosts your skin’s ability to repair itself AND can help you in getting rid of acne scars.
But it can also be irritating, especially if combined with the wrong products. Just as with the acids, make sure to follow the label instructions to a T!
Zinc Oxide
My favorite find of recent years: mineral sunscreens! And the magic ingredient, that makes it all possible is zinc oxide. As far as I know, it’s the safest active ingredient available for effective broad-spectrum protection.
Related: Zinc sunscreen – The good, the bad, and the recommendation
Retinol
Lastly, I have to mention retinol. Definitely very hyped in skin care at the moment. Retinoids can help with first signs of aging, as they boost collagen production. I don’t personally use them, so I’ll let others get into the how’s and why’s.
And many more…
Of course there are many more active ingredients in skin care products. Now that you know how to recognise them on the label (written first and with the percentage, remember?), you’ll see quite a few of them.
Related: The best facial serum for Gua Sha by skin type
How many actives in skincare routine?
So now after reading this whole list of active ingredients, you might feel a little overwhelmed. And you might wonder “How many actives should I even use in my skincare routine?”
The answer, as usual, is “It depends.” First of all, you should try out all active ingredients on their own with a proper patch test. And then, when you add another one into your routine, make sure that it’s ok to combine them.
Some ingredients, like Niacinamide and Vitamin C are better used separately. Others, like Hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide work as a dream team, if used in the right concentration.
Do your research, read the labels, and, of course, consult your dermatologist when in doubt!
Hope you know what active ingredients are now!
I hope this was helpful to you and you now understand what actives are and how to recognise them. If it was indeed helpful, I’d really appreciate you sharing this with someone else! Thank you!
*These links are so-called provision links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I can earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
